Sable Island: where fantasies come true

Goldilocks!

Goldilocks, a Sable Island beauty


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I spent a memorable few hours alone on an island with an enchanting platinum blonde today.

We first set eyes on each other as she was having her lunch – nibbling on some exotic greens.
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I asked her if I could make some portraits and she just gave me a look of nonchalance which I took to be a sign of permission. Once in a while she would cast me a gaze. I was left in a state of infatuation and fascination, wondering how long she had lived on the island and if she had family nearby or on the mainland.
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It looked like her flowing mane had been tinted by a professional. She hoofed it along the dunes and I was thrilled to join her observing from a respectful distance (60 feet as per Park rules).

I was intent on capturing her essence with my camera when a massive male appendage suddenly telescoped and drooped almost to the ground. 
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She was a he… a well endowed stallion with a stunning feminine mane! I was dumbfounded by this profound moment of biological reality.

Shortly after, we met up with a band of horses which seemed to be his band or harem as I like to think.

Sable- Mike Beedell (8)

Horses seek naturally occurring fresh water on Sable Island


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We parted company as I was drawn to the sight of a mare and frisky colt on a distant dune. A band of fog was moving in from the southwest and before long I was bathed in dense fog. As I dropped into a valley I came upon a band of horses in the mist, munching and crunching in harmony.
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Tiny little purple shoots were poking out of the sand and the horses focused on cropping these off but they seemed to be eating a fair bit of sand with every nibble.

The fog ebbed and flowed like a river, swirling & eddying in different directions. The light was diffused by the mist but it allowed me to make beautiful monochromatic images of the horses engrossed in their intense browsing.

Sable- Mike Beedell (3)

Fog provides fascinating photographic opportunities on Sable Island

These equine spirits disappeared in the mists and for a time I was left utterly alone with my thoughts, the perpetual pounding of the Atlantic waves in the distance. I lay down in the warm sand and curled up in a ball and went to sleep. Walking in the loose sand for many kilometers with 40 pounds of camera gear on my back had inspired a well deserved nap.
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When I awoke I was chilled by a breeze but bathed in beautiful light. The wind had blown away the fog and the sun was dropping quickly. I never did find that mare and colt who had melded into the labyrinth of dunes. I saw instead the exciting opportunity to get silhouettes of the horses on the high sand dune ridges.

Horses in silhouette

Horses in silhouette

It seemed that late in the day many horses would be drawn to the top of the dunes with these incredible views. So I ascended the dunes and waited for the right light to illuminate these hardy beasts.
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After an intense half-hour of shooting I watched a red ball of fire being extinguished by the sea and I began the long trek back to park headquarters along North Beach. As twilight engulfed me I heard moaning and sighing. This was the sound of masses of Grey Seals on the beach pulling themselves from the sea.

Sable Island sunsets are magnificent

Sable Island sunsets are magnificent

I walked for about an hour and a half (4 km) and I was flanked by a solid  line of seals, ten or more abreast for my entire walk back to the main camp. I estimate I encountered several thousand seals of the variety sometimes known as horsehead seals. This was the most memorable pinniped walk I have ever done in my life.

Sable- Mike Beedell (11)

Gray seals, also known as horsehead seals, loll on Sable Island

I had walked among the members of the largest Grey Seal colony on the planet! A perfect coda to a day of fantasies on mystical Sable Island.

Sable Island: a photographer’s dream come true

View from remote, beautiful Sable Island

Sable Island: where every view is an ocean view


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As a guide, resource person and photographer for Adventure Canada I have had the joy of exploring many stunning parts of the world with participants who yearn for what I call “deep travel experiences”.

Sable Island has been beckoning to me for decades and it is a thrill to have Sable as our newest National Park to be protected for perpetuity – not only for Canadians but all humankind. For many months I have been in a standby mode with Parks Canada ready to jump when there was a window of possibility to reach the island.
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Finally, on April 30th, we took off from Halifax in our 1973 Islander STOL aircraft for the flight to Sable. I was in the co-pilot seat with Ted, our veteran pilot, who does a lot of over-ocean flying.
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Selfie: Sable Island bound

Selfie: Sable Island bound

I was wearing my life jacket but Ted was not wearing his. I love a confident pilot. Three other passengers were headed to the island to do technical work for Parks Canada on infrastructure projects. After an hour and a half we dove through the clouds, and Sable came into view.
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A colony of seals appears as tiny dots on West Spit

A colony of seals appears as tiny dots on West Spit

Before we landed Ted flew us over West Spit and I could not believe my eyes. As I looked at the coamers roaring into the beach, Ted said “Here come the seals!” There were tens of thousands of seals basking on the beach. The biggest colony of Grey Seals in the world (estimated at 50,000 pinnipeds) make Sable their home. We flew up the length of Sable, then banked sharply near Lake Wallace, and I could see the Parks buildings below me. As we prepared to land, I could see a vehicle with a wind-sock attached to its bumper on a massive expanse of wet sand. We dropped out of the sky and Ted laid us down gently, using about 600 feet of runway.
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As we stepped out of the aircraft the cold wind bit into us but we were warmly greeted by Aaron and Brent, Parks officials on the island. We jumped in a jeep annd were whisked off to our abode where we would stay for the next week.
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Members of the world's largest colony of Grey seals

Members of the world’s largest colony of Gray seals

I grabbed my camera gear and headed for the beach on a quest to see the multitude of seals. As I crested cautiously over a dune a potent smell assailed my nostrils. There in front of me, about 200 feet away was the largest group I had ever seen in my life at close range! Hundreds and hundreds all snuggled in together enjoying a very flatulent day at the beach. There were black ones, brown ones, fat ones and little ones all enjoying each other’s company. There were more coming out of the water to join the Grey seal throngs.

Greetings from a baby seal

Greetings from a baby seal

Suddenly I heard a snort near me, and I looked over to see a sand covered baby Grey seal just 20 feet away! He had been sleeping, and was camouflaged by the sand that had blown over him. I quickly made some portraits of him and then moved away to give him a bit of space.

Wild horses speckled the dunescapes too, so I pointed my Nikons in their direction next. A young colt lay nearby. He reminded me of some ancient horse drawings I had seen of pre-ice age creatures. He was wearing his thick winter coat which was more like fur than hair.
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Sable Island horse looking well despite a long winter

Sable Island horse looking well despite a long winter

Chunks of his winter coat were falling off, and he looked very healthy but others I saw were in rough shape —their ribs sticking through from a rugged existence and very cold winter. One fellow with a dreadlock mane nibbled away at the first shoots of the year. It will still be a month until the really nutritious grasses and sedges provide good volumes of food for these hardy equines.
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Seals are unconcerned by respectful human visitors

Seals are unconcerned by respectful human visitors

I scurried about with a sense of urgency to capture the essence of this place on this glorious sunny, windy day because I know weather here changes in an instant. Before I knew it the sun was going down. I had only been on the island for 8 hours but I was exhausted, sated and elated at absorbing and documenting this magical place.
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As I drifted off to sleep with my plans for tomorrow I thought of the island as a sentinel of sand dunes, guarding the coast of Nova Scotia.

Sable Island offers magnificent sunsets

Sable Island offers magnificent sunsets- fodder for a photographer’s dreams

Capturing Galapagos

We don’t know which part of this video we love most. The portrait of the amenable blue-footed booby? The close-up of the easy-going Galapagos tortoise? It could be the squishy octopus wrapping itself around a traveller’s hand, or the adorable seals spooning on the beach…

On second thought, it’s all of those, and one thing more: This brilliant visual document of a voyage to Galapagos Islands was shot on a cell phone by honeymooner Miguel Endara.

Visit Galapagos Islands with Adventure Canada, April 25 – May 6.

Mercer raves about Sable Island

Rick Mercer is famous for his rants, in which he spells out the issues of the day in plain, and often hilarious terms.

On a visit to Sable Island off the coast of Nova Scotia, the beloved comedian seems enthralled, rather than engraged. And why not?

Visiting a meteorologist, a scientist, and a parks Canada representative—the island is Canada’s 43rd national park—Mercer introduces us to 3/5 of the island’s human population, while wild seals cavort on the beach, and the famous Sable Island horses feed idly on the grass-covered dunes.

It’s a magical place, and one few Canadians have ever visited. No wonder Rick Mercer raves about Sable Island!

Visit Sable Island with Adventure Canada in 2014.